When to Prune
WHEN TO PRUNE
The important thing to remember is that pruning always stimulates new growth, from the point at which you cut. For this reason, it is unwise to prune after midsummer and into autumn. The plant will put on a spurt of fresh, sappy growth that will not have time to harden before the onset of winter, and will probably die back.
NEW WOOD OR OLD?
The first rule in pruning is to make the cut on the correct part of the stem, so it is important to be able to recognize new and old wood. Sometimes also called the current season’s growth new wood is supple and bright green in colour, gradually turning brown in summer as it becomes progressively less pliable. One-year-old wood is usually brown. Older wood tends to be grey.
MAKING THE CUTS
Depending on the plant, growth buds either lie opposite each other on the stem or are arranged alternately.
In both cases, you need to cut back to just above a growth bud. In the case of plants with opposite buds, two new shoots will grow, making a bushier plant. With alternate buds, a new shoot will emerge growing in the direction the bud was pointing. This is why you often hear about cutting back to an outward-facing bud, a method that creates a vase-shaped plant with an open centre through which air can circulate freely.
Gardener's Tip
To help a plant recover speedily after pruning, give it a dose of fertilizer, preferably as a root drench or foliar feed. This is especially important if you are dealing with a sickening or weak specimen.
You will soon discover that many of the pruning techniques are similar — because the principles of pruning remain the same whatever type of plant you are dealing with.
Roses and clematis have specific needs depending on the variety. Use a good rose catalogue if you are unsure which type of rose you have. Clematis are divided into three groups, and this information is usually stated on the plant label when you buy your plant. If in doubt, the section on clematis will help you ascertain to which group your plant belongs.
The important thing to remember is that pruning always stimulates new growth, from the point at which you cut. For this reason, it is unwise to prune after midsummer and into autumn. The plant will put on a spurt of fresh, sappy growth that will not have time to harden before the onset of winter, and will probably die back.
NEW WOOD OR OLD?
The first rule in pruning is to make the cut on the correct part of the stem, so it is important to be able to recognize new and old wood. Sometimes also called the current season’s growth new wood is supple and bright green in colour, gradually turning brown in summer as it becomes progressively less pliable. One-year-old wood is usually brown. Older wood tends to be grey.
MAKING THE CUTS
Depending on the plant, growth buds either lie opposite each other on the stem or are arranged alternately.
In both cases, you need to cut back to just above a growth bud. In the case of plants with opposite buds, two new shoots will grow, making a bushier plant. With alternate buds, a new shoot will emerge growing in the direction the bud was pointing. This is why you often hear about cutting back to an outward-facing bud, a method that creates a vase-shaped plant with an open centre through which air can circulate freely.
Gardener's Tip
To help a plant recover speedily after pruning, give it a dose of fertilizer, preferably as a root drench or foliar feed. This is especially important if you are dealing with a sickening or weak specimen.
You will soon discover that many of the pruning techniques are similar — because the principles of pruning remain the same whatever type of plant you are dealing with.
Roses and clematis have specific needs depending on the variety. Use a good rose catalogue if you are unsure which type of rose you have. Clematis are divided into three groups, and this information is usually stated on the plant label when you buy your plant. If in doubt, the section on clematis will help you ascertain to which group your plant belongs.
